"Paige" Headband Crochet Pattern

I just love the criss-cross look of this headband! It frames your face nicely and matches any outfit!

-Makes an adult headband measuring an average head around 21"

Supplies:
- "I" hook
- Caron Simply Soft yarn
-Yarn Sewing Needle

Abbreviations Used:
-st: stitch
-ch: chain
-sc: single crochet
-hdc: half double crochet

Headband:
-ch 14
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch, ch 2, turn (12 hdc)
Row 2: hdc in each st, ch 2, turn (12 hdc)
Row 3-12: repeat Row 2
Row 13: hdc in first 5 st, ch 2, turn (6 hdc including ch 2)
Row 14-25: repeat Row 13, tie off after 13 rows total.

*Now attach the yarn at the edge of Row 12 and repeat Rows 13-25 on the other half of the row for a total of 13 rows, 6 hdc wide. You should have two pieces totaling the width of the headband. Cross these two pieces so you get the "criss-cross" look!

Row 26: Starting at the edge of the top of both pieces (you may have to tie off your working yarn and attach another piece), ch 2, hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn (12 hdc)
Row 27-37: repeat Row 26 (ch 1, turn on last row)

*Hold both ends together and sc the two ends together. Tie off. Sew in ends.

Ta-Da! You're done! Now how easy was that?!?!

*Step-by-Step pictures coming soon*

ANY FEEDBACK IS WELCOME! THANK YOU FOR VISITING MY BLOG!

Cake Pops: How To!

Created, Perfected, and Written by Melissa Keane
Makes a batch of 40

Along with my love for crocheting and doing crafts, I love to bake! I especially love to make cake pops! Everyone asks for my recipe and so I finally decided to post it. Let me warn you, they are time consuming. Most times I make them, I'm doing lots of other things at the same time and they can take up to 4 hours. But they are well worth the effort! If I get a positive response to this recipe/tutorial, I have many other baking recipes I would love to share. Let me know what you think! Thanks for stopping by Sadie's Basket.

 Ingredients:

-Betty Crocker Cake Box

-Betty Crocker Frosting (NOT the whipped frosting!)

-Eggs, oil, and water according to cake box

-1 pk of Wilton 4 inch lollipop sticks (40 sticks)

-1 pk of Wilton 6x4 clear plastic treat bags (40 bags)

-2 bags of Wilton candy melts

-1 extra bag of Wilton candy melts if you want to decorate the cake pops in another color

-Sprinkles

-Colored ribbon

Wilton candy melts are available at Michael’s, Joann, or Walmart

Supplies:

-13x9 baking dish

-Parchment or wax paper

-2 cookie sheets

-1 cookie dough scooper

-Microwave safe melting bowl

Baking your Cake:
 

I use Betty Crocker cake mix to make my cakes. I follow the directions on the box and bake it in a 13x9 glass dish.

After it’s baked, I set the cake and glass dish on a cooling rack and take a knife and cut slices in the cake making a checkerboard to let the heat out. You need the cake to be completely cool.

Making your Cake Balls:

I dump the completely cooled cake in a very large bowl and crumble it into tiny pieces with my hands. I add about ¾ of a container of Betty Crocker frosting to the cake crumbles and mix it completely.

I use a cookie dough scoop that makes about 1 ½ inch uniform balls (make sure to pack the mix in). I place them on a cookie sheet on a piece of parchment or wax paper. I fit about 20 on a sheet. The batch should make around 40 balls give or take. I then place them in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. You just want the balls frozen.

Putting in the sticks:

I melt about ¼ of the bag of candy melts just for dipping the sticks. I use a Pampered Chef microwave steamer to melt the chips but you can also melt them in a bowl. I recommend melting for 1 minute, stirring the melts, and then 15 second increments until melted (It should only take around 1 minute or 1 minute, 15 seconds).

Then I take one tray out at a time and dip the sticks in chocolate about an inch deep then stick in the center of the cake pops and back into the freezer for another 30 min or so until the chocolate is frozen.

 NOTE: THIS TECHNIQUE MAKES THE CAKE POPS FLAT ON ONE SIDE. I ONLY MAKE MY CAKE POPS THIS WAY BECAUSE THEY REQUIRE SO MUCH TIME AND EFFORT. IF YOU WANTED COMPLETELY ROUND CAKE POPS YOU CAN ROLL THEM FOR SHAPE AND THEN PUT THE STICKS IN A STYROFOAM BLOCK THAT YOU CAN BUY AT A CRAFT STORE. I’VE ALSO HEARD OF PEOPLE PUTTING THEM IN AN UPSIDE DOWN COLANDER.

Dipping your Cake Pops:

When dipping the cake pops by myself, I only take about 5 out of the freezer at a time so they stay the coldest possible. The key is to have a very cold cake pop with the warm chocolate and that makes the smoothest shell. I melt ½ a bag of candy melts at a time. This should dip around 9-10 cake pops. So you are doing this in 4 batches. I once melted the whole bag of candy melts at one time and it made a thicker coat and actually coated less cake pops. So the ½ method stretches the candy melts.

I dip the cake pops in a circular motion and tap the stick on the side of the bowl to get off excess chocolate. (This will save you more). I then place the dipped cake pops on parchment paper on the counter and leave there to harden.

Decorating your Cake Pops:

You can choose to put sprinkles on your cake pops while the chocolate is still wet (immediately after dipping). Or you can drizzle a different colored candy melt across the top after all cake pops have been dipped.

Packaging your Cake Pops:

You must wait until your cake pops have come to room temperature. If they are cold when you put them in the bags, they will produce condensation and moisture inside the bag.

I then put them in their plastic bags and tie with colorful ribbon!

Flavor Combinations:

-Chocolate cake and chocolate frosting

-Lemon cake and cream cheese frosting

-Vanilla cake and vanilla frosting

-Vanilla cake with a couple drops of mint extract and vanilla frosting (crème de menthe)

-German chocolate cake and coconut frosting

-Strawberry cake with vanilla or strawberry frosting

-Spice cake with cream cheese frosting

-Don’t forget you can always color the frosting of vanilla cake batters with die to match or for fun holidays!

-I have made cake pops with white, red, and even purple colored candy melts. I have found that the colored candy melts don’t melt as thin and are harder to dip. They make more of a chunky, thick candy coating rather than a smooth coating that the chocolate makes.  Enjoy!

I'd love to hear feedback, so leave any questions and comments below!

"Emma" Bow Hat Crochet Pattern

“Emma” Bow Hat Crochet Pattern

Written and Created by: Sadie’s Basket

-makes a newborn hat (0-3 months) (about 12” around and 5” tall)

Supplies:

Crochet hook “H”

Simply Soft Yarn in 2 colors (main and second)

Yarn Needle

Abbreviations Used:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-dc: double crochet

Newborn Hat (0-3 months):

**for 6 month and 12 month hat patterns, go to bottom**

(beginning with main color- in this example pink)

-Chain 3

Round 1: 10 double crochets in first chain (3^rd from hook), slip stitch in top of chain 3 to join (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (30 dc)

Round 5: Repeat round 4

Round 6: Switch to second color (in this example white) and repeat round 4

Round 7: Switch back to main color (pink) and repeat round 4

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 1 to join (30 sc)

Round 9: Repeat round 8. Tie off. Sew in ends.

Bow:

(using second color to match the stripe in the hat)

-Chain 17

Row 1: Half double crochet in 3^rd chain from hook and in each remaining chain until the end, turn (15 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in each st to end, turn (15 hdc)

Row 3: Repeat row 2

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Edging: Ch 1, sc around all 4 sides of bow in both stitches on the top and bottom and in holes on the sides of the rows. Tie off. Sew in ends.

Center: Take end of yarn from skein and wrap around the center of the bow, adjusting the shape of the bow as you go. After about 20 wraps (or desired amount), cut the yarn and tie a couple knots between the two yarn ends in the back of the bow (make sure the ends are long because you will use them to attach the bow).

Attaching the Bow: Send the two ends from tying off the center of the bow through the white row on the hat, in your desired spot (mine is off centered on the right side). Tie a few knots on the inside of the hat to attach it. With the long ends, sew one end up and back down the right side of the bow to stabilize the bow. Repeat this on the left side with the other long end. Tie off. Sew in ends.

Ta-Da! You're done! Below are the hat patterns for 6 and 12 month hats. You can use the same bow size for these hats or make a little larger of a bow by increasing the chains at the beginning and crocheting more rows.

6 Month Hat:

(about 14" around and 5.5" tall)

(beginning with main color- in this example pink)

-Chain 3

Round 1: 10 double crochets in first chain (3^rd from hook), slip stitch in top of chain 3 to join (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (40 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (40 dc)

Round 6: Repeat round 5

Round 7: Switch to second color (in this example white) and repeat round 5

Round 8: Switch back to main color (pink) and repeat round 5

Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 1 to join (40 sc)

Round 10: Repeat round 9. Tie off. Sew in ends.

12 Month Hat: 

(about  17" around and 6.5" tall)

(beginning with main color- in this example pink)

-Chain 3

Round 1: 10 double crochets in first chain (3^rd from hook), slip stitch in top of chain 3 to join (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (40 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3, *2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 7 st, continue from * to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (45 dc)

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 3 to join (45 dc)

Round 7: Repeat round 6

Round 8: Switch to second color (in this example white) and repeat round 6

Round 9: Switch back to main color (pink) and repeat round 6

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around to end, sl st in top of ch 1 to join (45 sc)

Round 11: Repeat round 10. Tie off. Sew in ends.

***Pictures coming soon to accompany the steps!***

Leave comments and questions below! Thank you and enjoy your free pattern and creations!

"Lola" Bow Headband Crochet Pattern

“Lola” Bow Headband

Written and created by: Sadie's Basket

-makes an adult headband for most heads measuring around 21’

Supplies:

Crochet hook “I”

Simply Soft Yarn

5 pearl beads or embellishment of your choice

Needle and matching thread

Sewing Needle

Abbreviations Used:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-hdc: half double crochet

-dc: double crochet

Headband:

Part 1-Headband:

-Chain 15

Row 1: dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each ch to end.

 

Row 2: ch 2, dc in each st and in the top of ch 2.

Row 3-36: repeat Row 2 until the headband measures your head when wrapped around (about 33 more rows).

 
-Match ends and sl st both ends together with working yarn. Tie off.

-Sew in ends.

Part 2-Bow:

-Chain 30 or long enough to cover one full side of the headband.

Row 1: hdc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each ch to end.

Row 2-8: repeat Row 1 until the piece resembles a rectangle and measures one side of the headband and reaches from left to right and top to bottom. Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Part 3- Assembly:

-Sew the rectangle bow (Part 2) on top of one side of the headband (Part 1). Sew the short sides only using the tails or new pieces of yarn.

-Run a new piece of yarn through the center of the bow piece (Part 2) causing it to cinch and bunch together. Send both ends down through the headband. Tie knots on the back-side and sew ends in.

-Attach 5 pearl beads with a needle and matching thread on top of the bow where you just bunched it together (I also have embellished the headband with a rhinestone button).

 

I hope you enjoy my free pattern and wear your creation proudly! Leave comments and questions below! XOXO

Valentine's Day Table Wreath

Even though I love to crochet, sometimes I feel it's necessary to take some time off (only a day or two) to rest my joints and I enjoy doing other crafts. Lately I have been really into making bows (for hair and decoration) and wreaths to hang on the door!

Today I combined both bows and wreaths together to make a table wreath where a candle can sit in the middle for a beautiful and festive centerpiece.

This is my first time posting something other than a crocheted pattern and also my first time posting a blog with pictures to accompany the steps. I hope you enjoy and I really appreciate any feedback!

I started my project with a Susan Bates embroidery hoop. To be honest, I was searching for something inexpensive and round that I could use as my base for the wreath. I know I would be covering it with flowers so I didn't mind what it looked like.

I then took my wire cutters and cut off all the flowers from a large flower bunch (I had to get the pink glitter daisies of course!!) I left a very small stem (less than 1/2 an inch) and made sure to also cut off some green for color.

Here are some more flowers!

Then with some pretty pink and red ribbon, I made some bows! (There are many tutorials online where I learned to make bows. Maybe one of these days I will post my own). After this step, I hot glued some small loose pearls to the center of the bows for a little something extra! But I forgot to take the picture :( (See I told you I was a beginner blogger!)

Next, I put a generous glob of hot glue on the stem and a little up on the side of the flowers. Once I stuck the flowers to the ring, the hot glue seeped down the side and stuck to the cardboard. (This is why I always work on a piece of cardboard so I don't ruin the table and it also pops off easy when the glue is dried and cooled).

I continued around the ring gluing flowers in every open space. I then glued the bows on top of the flowers (I actually covered some flowers but only a couple little ones).

Now for the tulle bunches! I cut about a 9 inch piece of tulle off the spool and folded it in half the long way. Then I took a needle and some pink thread and sewed the tulle along the bottom folded edge using a "running stitch". Basically I just sewed from back to front and then front to back with an inch space in between each stitch.

Then I pulled the thread taunt and it bunched up nicely.

I wrapped the thread around the bottom a few times and it created this cute little tulle bunch that I thought would look perfect tucked in between the flowers! (It's super easy! I only know how to sew a little by hand and I could do this!)

Then I glued the tulle bunches behind and tucked in between the flowers, straight to the plastic ring. 

Then I added a candle to the center of my ring (this is the Gold Canyon- Cinnamon Pinecone candle that is TO DIE FOR!) and TA-DA! Your wreath is complete! So simple! So quick! So pretty!

Here are some close up pictures of the bows and flowers!

Happy Valentine's Day and enjoy your festive wreath for your table!

Chevron Coffee Cozy Crochet Pattern

-This crochet pattern is made to fit a recycled tumbler, which is about an average size travel mug.

Supplies:

Crochet hook size H

Caron Simply Soft yarn

Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:

Ch: Chain

Sc: Single Crochet

St: Stitch

Instructions:

-Chain 46 (with first desired color-White)

Row 1: sc in each ch across (45 stitches)

Row 2: ch 1, *sc in next 3 st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next stitch, sc in next 3 st, skip 2 sc*, repeat from * to last 2 stitches. Instead of skipping the last two stitches, skip the next stitch and sc in last stitch.

*SWITCH COLORS* -Grey

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1, skip next st, *sc in next 3 st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next stitch, sc in next 3 st, skip 2 sc*, repeat from * to last 2 stitches. Skip second to last stitch and sc in last stitch.

Row 4: repeat Row 3.

*SWITCH COLORS* -White

Row 5: repeat Row 3.

Row 6: repeat Row 3.

*SWITCH COLORS* -Grey

Row 7: repeat Row 3.

Row 8: repeat Row 3.

*SWITCH COLORS* -White

Row 9: repeat Row 3.

Row 10: repeat Row 3.

*SWITCH COLORS* -Grey

Row 11: repeat Row 3. Tie off but leave one long tail for stitching up the side. Make sure to match colors so the seam looks good.

-Sew in ends.

-Embellish with initials, hearts, flowers, or anything you want! You can find patterns and ideas on different crochet websites. Have fun!!!

60-Minute Cowl Scarf

Looking to make a quick scarf for tonight? A gift for a friend? Or just a crazy cozy cowl? You will LOVE this fast and easy creation of mine!!!!

Supplies:

Hook N

2 skeins of Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn (about 162 yards)

Sewing Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Ch: chain

Sl: slip stitch

Dc: double crochet

Instructions:

Round 1: ch 60, sl to join to first chain making sure not to twist work.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in each chain around, sl in top of ch 3.

Round 3-10: repeat Round 2.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Enjoy!

(See I told you it was really easy!) :)

Vintage Pot Holder/ Hot Plate Crochet Pattern

Supplies:

Hook K

Red Heart yarn (or another sturdy and tough medium worsted weight yarn)

Sewing Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Ch: chain

Sl: slip stitch

Sc: single crochet

Dc: double crochet

Instructions for Holder: (work piece with 2 strands of yarn at the same time)

Round 1: ch 3, 10 dc in first ch, sl in top of ch 3. (10 dc)

Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in each stitch, sl in top of ch 3. (20 dc)

Round 3: ch 3, *2 dc in first stitch, dc in next st, repeat from * around, sl in top of ch 3. (30 dc)

Round 4: ch 3, *2 dc in first stitch, dc in next 2 st, repeat from * around, sl in top of ch 3. (40 dc)

Round 5: ch 3, *2 dc in first stitch, dc in next 3 st, repeat from * around, sl in top of ch 3. (50 dc) Tie off.

-Attach only 1 strand of yarn in the color of your choice for scallop edge.

Round 6: ch 3, 5 dc in same stitch as joining, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, *6 dc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, repeat from * around ending with a sc, sl in top of ch 3, ch 6, sl in top of sc right below (you just made the loop to hang it!), tie off.

-Sew in all ends.

I HOPE YOU ENJOY THIS PATTERN! FEEDBACK IS ALWAYS APPRECIATED!

Cable Stitch "Jenna" Headband Crochet Pattern

I HAVE CHOSEN TO POST THIS PATTERN FOR A SECOND TIME ON MY BLOG BECAUSE SOME PEOPLE ARE HAVING TROUBLES ACCESSING THE FIRST POST. THE PATTERN IS EXACTLY THE SAME!

I created this headband and pattern when a friend of mine, Jenna, wanted a custom cable headband for the winter! Thank you Jenna for your great idea! This is my favorite fall/winter accessory! 

-makes an adult headband for most heads measuring around 21”

NOTE: This pattern is an intermediate pattern because of the use of the front and back post triple crochet stitches to make the cable. I learned how to do these stitches just by watching video tutorials on you-tube.

Supplies:

Crochet hook ‘I’

Simply Soft Yarn

1 or 2 buttons for closure

Sewing needle

Abbreviations Used:

-ch: chain

-sts: stitches

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-fptr: front post triple crochet

-bptr: back post triple crochet

Headband:

-chain 13 (or any number that leaves 4 cable stitches in the middle and an even number of stitches on both sides- So here I wanted 4,4,4 so the ch 13 will make 12 sts)

Row 1: sc in 2^nd chain and each remaining chain, turn

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), hdc in each of the remaining 11 sts, turn (12 sts total)

Row 3: ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr in post of each of the next 4 hdc, hdc in each of 4 remaining st, turn

Row 4: ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, bptr in post of each of the 4 fptr, hdc in 4 remaining st, turn

Row 5: ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, skip the next 2 stitches (sts 1 & 2) and fptr in post of 3^rd bptr and 4^th bptr, then go back to the 2 skipped sts and fptr in the post of the 1^st bptr and 2^nd bptr (in that order every time- 3, 4, 1, 2), hdc in remaining 4 sts, turn 

(*make sure when you do the fptr in the 1st bptr and 2nd bptr, you are doing these over top (or in front of) the 3rd and 4th stitches. This is what gives it the cross-over look*)

Row 6: repeat row 4

Row 7: repeat row 5

Row 8: repeat row 4

Row 9: repeat row 5

-Continue this pattern until the headband measures about 19”-20" long, finishing with row 4. (about 20 cross-overs)

-Row ? (however long your headband is): repeat row 3

-Hdc 2 rows as the ending edge. Tie off.

Sew in ends and attach button between the 2 hdc rows at the end. When buttoning the headband, I just slip the button through the middle of the 4 cable stitches- there should be a big enough gap.

PLEASE LEAVE QUESTIONS, COMMENTS, AND FEEDBACK FOR ME! THIS IS MY FIRST ATTEMPT AT WRITING AND POSTING PATTERNS AND I'M VERY NEW TO THIS!

Jelly Fish Stuffie

MAKE SURE TO READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE STARTING (ESPECIALLY THE ASSEMBLY PART). IT WILL GIVE YOU A BETTER IDEA OF HOW TO MAKE THE WHOLE THING.

*The stitches used in this pattern are beginner stitches but a little bit of experience is needed to assemble the pieces*

Supplies:

-H hook or any size you desire for the size of the finished project

-Red Heart Yarn (Great for using up scraps!)

-Stuffing

-Yarn Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Sl st- slip stitch

St- stitch

Sc- single crochet

Dec- decrease (or single crochet two stitches together)

Hdc- half double crochet

Dc- double crochet

Body:

-Chain 4, sl st to form ring

Round 1: 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st (12)

Round 3: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, cont around (18)

Round 4: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 st, cont around (24)

Round 5: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 st, cont around (30)

Round 6: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 st, cont around (36)

Round 7: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 st, cont around (42)

Round 8: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 st, cont around (48)

Rounds 9-13: sc around (48)

Round 14: dec across first 2 st, sc in next 5 st, cont around (42)

Round 15: dec across first 2 st, sc in next 4 st, cont around (36)

Round 16: dec across first 2 st, sc in next 3 st, cont around (30)

Round 17: dec across first 2 st, sc in next 2 st, cont around (24)

Round 18: dec across first 2 st, sc in next 1 st, cont around (18)

Round 19: dec across first 2 st, cont around until 2-3 st are left, tie off.

-Add 2 eyes in the shape of “X”.

-Add smile between two eyes.

Medium Tentacle (make 4):

-Chain 50

-Sc in first 2 st

-2 hdc in each remaining st

Large Tentacle (make 4):

-Chain 75

-Sc in first 2 st

-2 hdc in each remaining st

Ruffle Skirt:

-Attach yarn and chain 3

-3 dc in same space as attached yarn

-4 dc in every other stitch around to make ruffle.

-Connect to top of chain 3 at beginning. Tie off.

(NOTE (for right handed crocheters): Each row is worked in the opposite direction of the row before it in order to get a “wavy” look. So after your first set of 4 dc’s and your last dc is on the “left” side of the stitches, you turn your work so now your last dc and needle are on the “right” side and then you make the four dc’s going towards the left about two stitches down (or towards you). The need to make this skirt perfectly straight around is not necessary. Mine was not perfect and it gave it more of a wavy, ruffle look at the end.)

Assembly:

-Sew all 8 tentacles onto the body of jelly fish prior to finishing the body.

-Make the skirt above the tentacles.

-Sew eyes and smile next.

-Stuff jelly fish as much as possible.

-Finish body of jelly fish (the end of the jelly fish will be at the top of its head, so it’s important to make your stitches pretty because they will be visible). 

(NOTE: I stopped working on the body when there were about 18 stitches left. Once I sewed all the pieces on and stuffed the majority of the body, I continued with the body pattern until there were about 4 stitches left. I finished stuffing the body as best I could and then finished crocheting the jelly fish!)

This is my second pattern I have ever released. If you have any questions please ask! Comments and feedback are always appreciated! XOXO